Free antiretrovirals and TV ads advising junkies not to swap needles. This is no HIV Shangri-La, but ultra Islamic Iran. Despite its taboos against premarital sex, homosexuality and drugs, the government has backed a sweeping AIDS campaign surprisingly light on morality. It's true that the word condom still can't be said to kids, but it may surprise -- and shame -- Americans that in other ways, the Muslim nation has made more prevention progress than the U.S.